Swamp Cooler Start-Up and Shut-Down for Pueblo Homes
Most swamp cooler leaks happen at two times of year: the first warm week of spring and the first hard freeze of fall. A few minutes at each end prevents both.
Request a plumberFind the shut-off
Trace the small water line from the cooler back to where it tees off the house plumbing. It's usually in the basement, utility room or attic, with its own small valve. Mark it so anyone in the house can find it quickly.
Spring start-up
Open the valve slowly and watch the line for drips, especially where it passes through the attic and the roof. Once water reaches the cooler, check the float valve fills the pan to the right level and shuts off.
Check the drain
Make sure the bleed-off or drain line runs freely and empties somewhere it won't soak the roof, the wall or the foundation. A blocked drain can overflow the pan and leak inside.
Fall shut-down
Close the supply valve, then open the drain on the cooler or disconnect the line at the cooler so the water inside can drain out. Any water left in the line can freeze and split it.
Covers and vents
Cover the cooler for winter to keep cold air from pouring into the house through it. Some homes also close the duct with a damper or a fitted cover inside.
When to get a plumber
Old saddle valves, corroded fittings and lines run through cold attics are worth replacing before they fail. See swamp cooler plumbing.
Pads and water quality
Mineral crust on pads and in the pan is normal in a dry climate, but heavy buildup makes the float stick and the pump work harder. Replacing pads each season and keeping the bleed-off line working keeps the minerals moving out instead of building up inside the cooler.
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